The speakeasy thing’s been done over and over, so it takes something truly amazing to make us go looking for some unmarked bar and wait for a table these days, especially when it’s cold as balls in the Twin Cities. But it turns out it’s totally worth wandering down an alley and waiting to get through the creepy metal door of Volstead’s, which counters accusations of pretentiousness by making some of the best cocktails in the midwest. It’s low lit, with a vibe somewhere between a ’20s speakeasy and the dining car of a particularly boozy Agatha Christie mystery.While the cocktails tend to rotate seasonally, the Brooklyn (a twist on a Manhattan) is worth asking for by name. And unlike in actual Brooklyn, it’s not going to gut your wallet: cocktails here hover around $10.
